Skin Rejuvenation — Overview
Skin rejuvenation encompasses non-laser and minimally invasive treatments designed to improve the appearance of aged, sun-damaged, or scarred skin around the eyes and face. These treatments complement laser procedures and surgical options to achieve comprehensive periorbital rejuvenation — addressing pigmentation, texture, vascular changes, and skin quality.
For laser resurfacing (CO₂, Er:YAG, fractional, IPL, and vascular lasers), see the dedicated Lasers page. For injectable rejuvenation, see Botox and Fillers.
Chemical Peels
Chemical peels use acidic solutions to exfoliate the skin at a controlled depth, stimulating cell renewal and collagen production. They are classified by the depth of skin penetration:
Superficial Peels
Affect only the stratum corneum and upper epidermis. Minimal to no downtime — mild flaking for 2–3 days. Best for mild pigmentation, skin texture, and maintenance. Can be performed on all skin types.
- Glycolic acid (10–50%): Alpha-hydroxy acid; improves texture, mild pigment irregularity, and fine lines. Series of 4–6 monthly treatments. Standard starting peel for most patients.
- Lactic acid: Gentler AHA; well-tolerated in sensitive skin and Fitzpatrick types IV–VI.
- Salicylic acid: Beta-hydroxy acid; oil-soluble, penetrates follicles; excellent for acne-prone skin and comedonal texture.
- Jessner's Solution: Combination of salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol; superficial peel with good results for mild acne and uneven pigmentation.
Medium-Depth Peels
Penetrate to the papillary dermis. Addresses moderate photoaging, moderate wrinkles, and superficial acne scarring. Recovery: 5–7 days of peeling. More significant and longer-lasting results than superficial peels.
- TCA 20–35% (trichloroacetic acid): The most widely used medium-depth agent. Provides reliable improvement in skin tone, texture, and moderate wrinkles. Can be used alone or combined with a superficial pre-peel (Jessner's + TCA) for enhanced penetration at lower TCA concentration.
- Combination peels: Pre-treating with Jessner's solution before TCA allows deeper penetration with less irritation — a safer approach than high-concentration TCA alone.
Deep Peels
Penetrate to the reticular dermis. Provide the most dramatic improvement in severe photoaging and deep wrinkles — comparable to ablative CO₂ laser resurfacing. Requires cardiac monitoring during application (systemic phenol absorption). Extended recovery: 14–21 days. Reserved for experienced physicians in carefully selected patients.
- Phenol (Baker-Gordon formula): Penetrates deeply with powerful results. Absolute contraindication in Fitzpatrick types IV–VI due to permanent hypopigmentation risk. Full-face treatment only — spot treatment with phenol risks demarcation lines.
Skin Type & Chemical Peel Selection
- Types I–II: Full range, including medium and deep peels
- Types III–IV: Superficial and medium-depth peels with pre-treatment hydroquinone to reduce PIH risk
- Types V–VI: Superficial peels only; risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is significant with deeper agents
Microneedling & Radiofrequency Microneedling
Microneedling creates controlled micro-injuries in the dermis using fine needles, stimulating a wound-healing response and new collagen production. It improves skin texture, fine lines, enlarged pores, and mild acne scarring.
- Standard microneedling (Dermapen, Collagen PIN): Needle depths from 0.5–2.5 mm; in-office procedure with topical numbing. Downtime: 1–2 days of redness and mild swelling. Series of 3–6 sessions recommended.
- Radiofrequency microneedling (Morpheus8, Vivace, Fractora): Combines mechanical microneedling with delivery of radiofrequency (RF) energy into the dermis. RF energy heats the deep dermis and subdermis, stimulating collagen and elastin remodeling and providing a mild skin-tightening effect. More effective than standard microneedling for laxity. Downtime: 2–3 days. Suitable for all Fitzpatrick skin types — RF energy has no melanin selectivity, making it substantially lower-risk for pigmentation in darker skin tones where lasers carry greater risk.
Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP)
Platelet-rich plasma is derived from the patient's own blood — centrifuged to concentrate growth factors — and injected or applied topically (with microneedling) to stimulate collagen synthesis and tissue regeneration. Also called the "vampire facial" when combined with microneedling. Clinical evidence supports improvement in skin texture, fine lines, and under-eye skin quality (PRP is not a volumizer for true tear-trough hollowing). Safe for all skin types with no allergy risk (autologous); however, strict sterile technique and proper blood handling are essential, as improperly performed procedures have caused documented infection transmission. Effects develop over 3–6 months. Often combined with microneedling, filler, or laser treatments for synergistic benefit.
Medical-Grade Skin Care & Maintenance
Procedural results are maintained and extended with a structured at-home regimen. Medical-grade skin care products differ from over-the-counter cosmetics in that they contain active ingredients at clinically validated concentrations that penetrate beyond the surface layer:
- Tretinoin (retinoic acid, 0.025–0.1%): Prescription vitamin A derivative — the most evidence-based topical anti-aging treatment. Stimulates epidermal renewal, increases collagen synthesis, reduces melanin production. Start low (0.025%) and titrate to tolerance. Initial side effects (peeling, redness) resolve in 2–4 weeks.
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, 10–20%): Antioxidant that neutralizes free radical damage from UV exposure, inhibits melanin synthesis, and enhances photoprotection. Apply in the morning under SPF. Unstable — use stabilized formulations (ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate) for longer shelf life.
- Broad-spectrum SPF 30+ daily: Non-negotiable for all patients undergoing any resurfacing or rejuvenation procedure. UV exposure degrades collagen, worsens pigmentation, and rapidly reverses procedural results. Physical (mineral) sunscreen (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) is preferred in sensitive or post-procedure skin.
- Hydroquinone (2–4%): Melanin synthesis inhibitor for pre- and post-treatment hyperpigmentation management. Used in cycles (3 months on, 1 month off) to avoid ochronosis with prolonged use. Prescription-strength 4% provides more reliable results.
- Niacinamide (5–10%): Anti-inflammatory, reduces melanin transfer, strengthens the skin barrier. Well-tolerated in all skin types; useful for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.
- Peptides and growth factors: Support skin barrier function and collagen production. Useful as a maintenance layer after retinoids and vitamin C have been established.
Frequently Asked Questions
- What is the difference between a chemical peel and laser resurfacing?
- Both treat sun damage, fine lines, and uneven pigmentation by removing damaged skin layers. Chemical peels use acid solutions (glycolic, TCA, phenol) to create controlled exfoliation. Lasers deliver energy to heat or ablate skin precisely, allowing more targeted depth control. Light peels have minimal downtime; medium to deep peels and ablative lasers require 5–14 days of recovery.
- What is microneedling?
- Microneedling creates thousands of micro-injuries in the skin using a device with fine needles, stimulating collagen and elastin production. Radiofrequency microneedling (Morpheus8, Vivace) adds heat energy to the dermis for greater skin tightening. It is effective for fine lines, skin texture, pore size, and mild laxity with 2–3 days of downtime.
- What is PRP for skin rejuvenation?
- Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) is derived from the patient's own blood, concentrated to isolate growth factors. When applied topically after microneedling or injected intradermally, PRP accelerates healing and stimulates collagen production. It is used for fine lines, dark circles, and overall skin quality improvement.
- Am I a good candidate for skin rejuvenation treatments?
- Ideal candidates for skin rejuvenation have realistic expectations and specific concerns like fine lines, texture irregularities, mild pigmentation issues, or loss of skin elasticity around the eyes and face. During your consultation, Dr. McKinstry will evaluate your skin type, medical history, and current skincare routine to determine which treatments are most appropriate for you. Generally, those with deeper skin tones may require modified chemical peel concentrations to minimize post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Active skin infections, severe cystic acne, or certain medications may require adjustment of your treatment plan.
- What should I expect during a skin rejuvenation consultation?
- Your consultation will include a thorough evaluation of your periorbital and facial skin, discussion of your specific concerns and aesthetic goals, and assessment of your skin type and sensitivity. Dr. McKinstry will explain which combination of treatments—such as chemical peels, microneedling, or PRP—would best address your needs and what realistic results you can expect. You'll also receive detailed pre-treatment instructions, including any necessary discontinuation of certain products or medications, and post-care requirements. Be prepared to discuss your medical history, previous skin treatments, and any known allergies or sensitivities.
Your Surgeon
M. Polly McKinstry, MD
Cosmetic and Reconstructive Surgery
🏅 ASOPRS Fellowship Trained
